Robert Mondavi - your judgement was right. Premium is best.

Robert Mondavi

Woodbridge

2006

Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to the greats of Californian Wine, Robert Mondavi is undoubtedly the brightest star shining in the firmamanent of New World wines, and in particular the constellation to be found hovering over the skies of Napa Valley. Little suprise then that he was named Decanter Magazine's Man of the Year way back in 1989.

Robert Mondavi had a simple belief that wine should be an integral part of every day life and this has, without doubt, been supremely displayed in the staggering array of premium quality wines to have come from the Robert Mondavi winery which he founded in 1966 - incidentally when I was just four years old. When establishing this winery his vision was to create premium quality wines that would stand high and proud against the greatest legends from vineyards in Europe - and this he did supremely well, even collaborating with Baron Rothschild to create the Opus One Winery and some awesome legendary wines in the process.

When I first started getting interested in wine in the early 1980s, Robert Mondavi was the man from California that everyone was talking about, so I was desperate to blow some money from my student grant (not loan in those days) on a bottle. However, I had to wait until I started working to afford this pleasure and remember ordering my first bottle of Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc in 1984 when I took the very young and beautiful Mrs W (then my girlfriend) to Brinkleys Restaurant in Hollywood Road, Fulham. Sade's Diamond Life was playing in the background and we had an astonishing meal for two for the princely (and hugely unaffordable) sum of £40. At the time I was on £5,200 a year. However, it was a fantastic evening made particularly special by a truly wonderful and unique wine which to this day I haven't forgotten.

So when I came home yesterday raving to Harry that I had picked up a Robert Mondavi wine at ASDA reduced from £7.99 to £5 I could hardly contain my enthusiasm and excitement, explaining why Mondavi wines were definitely where it's at when it comes to the very finest in Californian wines.

However, I have to say that my enthusiasm soon waned after tasting what I felt to be a highly capable but unremarkable wine - one for which the Mondavis in recent years have arguably been criticised for producing, at least within its Woodbridge and Coastal brands. Indeed the wine we drank last night is the kind of commercial global wine which came to light in the controversial film Mondovino which looked at how the traditional vineyards of Europe were being globalised by US wineries eager to buy up family vineyards to create a more palatable universal offering regardless of local tastes and 'terrioir'.

What Harry, Ruth and I drank with our pizza and salad last night was highly likeable in the same way that some Broadway or West End musical entertainment show has drawn in a generation of unquestioning yet ecstatically delighted followers. However, it was neither unique nor memorable in the way that bottle of Fume Blanc was back in 1984.

In 2003, Robert Mondavi, speaking in an interview to the New York Times, criticised his sons for driving forward the company's lower priced Coastal and Woodbridge brands in preference to the premium end wines for which the Robert Mondavi brand had become associated. He was clearly unsettled by the fact that his winery had become associated with wines at the more affordable end of the price spectrum, remarking to the New York Times journalist that restaurants no longer offered them on wine lists. ''We've got to get our image back, and that's going to take time,'' he said.

I'm sure Harry and Ruth will readily agree, last night's Cabernet Sauvignon was extremely drinkable and offered a pleasing mix of dark berry flavours with a slight aniseed and chocolate aroma. However, it didn't make a remarkable or distinctive impression on the palate - it was just a very sound wine. But instantly forgettable.

Mr Mondavi - your very sound judgement was right. I am now going in search of a bottle of your famous Fume Blanc. Long live premium quality wines with the personality and price tag to match.

However, this is nevertheless a hugely drinkable, safe bet and won't let you down- and at this price it's a bargain. But a conversation stopper it ain't. Just like my M & S suit. It does what it says on the packet but doesn't turn any eyebrows.

Dinner Party Appeal: 9/10 (highly drinkable, and as sound as a pound)

Value for Money: 9/10 (this is a great bargain at £5)

Probability of Buying Again: 4/10 (I'd rather save my money for the real Mondavi experience with its less easily obtainable premium brand - check out Majestic Wines online)