Dr Loosen
Reisling 2008
ASDA £5.48
Make no mistake, Ernst Loosen, the man behind the multi-award winning Dr Loosen brand of wines, is a superlative winemaker who has accumulated an array of glittering prizes. In 1989 he won Reisling of the Year by German wine magazine Feinschmecker; this was followed by an award from Gault-Millau, the prestigious and highly influential French restaurant guide which named him German winemaker of the Year in 2001. And to top it all, he was named as Man of the Year by Decanter Magazine in 2005.
Every Dr Loosen wine you buy is always a 5* sure fire bet. They are beautifully structured, clean and simply elegant. The wine that Harry, Mrs W and I had on Saturday night was all of these things with a mix of pineapple, honey and elderflower coming through on a long clean presentation on the palate.
To me, the sign of a very well made white wine is its ability to deliver its full palate of flavours when severely chilled. Personally, once white wines start to warm up I find them slightly sickly and cloying.
All credit to Ernst Loosen, his very young 2008 Reisling had impeccable manners, an exceptional flowery bouquet and a very subtle effervescence. Reluctant as I am to offer any criticism to this supreme master of wine, my only concern was a possible over-sweetness on the finish. Mrs W would have none of this and adored every mouthful but Harry and I felt that a dryish counterbalance was needed to calm down the swarm of sweet flavours.
In this month's issue of Decanter the recent panel tasting of Alsace white wines came in for heavy criticism for their residual over-sweetness and I just wonder (even though Dr Loosen's wines are over the border on the banks of the Mosel) whether this elegant wine has suffered a similar drift in the same direction. I don't recall my last Dr Loosen Reisling, about two years ago, being quite so sweet.
That said, for Reisling lovers this bottle is a masterclass in outstanding wine craftsmanship and will, I know, continue to thrill many existing and future fans of Dr Loosen. And at its current price in ASDA, this first class example of Reisling elegance is not to be missed.
Thoroughly Decent Wine: 10/10
Dinner Party Appeal: 9/10 (perfect with fish or Asian cuisine)
Probability of Buying Again: 9/10 (it's a sure fire bet - just want to check on the sweetness)
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