Friday, February 12, 2010

Pierre Lurton - the man behind Yquem creates a fine M & S stunner

Lurton La Chapelle

Grand Vin de Bordeaux

2006

Marks & Spencer £9.99

First of all I must apologise to my minscule audience about the low level of wine blogging at the start of 2010. I do hope you will forgive me. Part of the reason why I haven't laid bashed away at the keyboard is largely due to the fact that most of the wines that I drank in January were repeat experiences of wines that I had been buying in the run up to Christmas. So, if there was a perfect example of a wine critic believing in his own recommendations, this must surely be it.

Two wines which continued to impress second time around were the 2006 Roc de Lussac from Sainsbury's (of which I bought several), which washed down an exceptional provencal chicken dish prepared by Mrs W, and the Cremant de Jura from ALDI, which made an outstanding partner to a pre New Year Chinese meal here at Chateau Blogspot.

Today's blog will actually be my only wine review for February for the simple reason that I am taking a month off all alcohol - arguably a bad move given that the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter occurs this month. However, as I am unable to attend this year it will be mo major sacrifice. I also want to give my palate a mid winter refurb and I think it's no bad thing to give my liver a mini holiday too.

So the bottle of Lurton La Chappelle (M & S) was actually drunk back in January and it still sticks in my mind as being a truly memorable wine. Created by the man behind the iconic Sauternes Chateau Yquem, Pierre Lurton (in partnership with winemaker Pascal Poussevin) this modern take on a Bordeaux wine is remarkable for the simple fact that it bombards your palate with a heady mix of flavours and delivers a really intriquing bouquet.

Harry thought I was being my usual pretentious self when I said I could detect chocolate and lavender, but soon agreed that this wasn't far off the mark. As for taste, we all sensed a heady mix of plums and blackcurrants and agreed that this was a wine with a distinctive personality. For a modern Bordeaux I think the main challenge is to create a wine that has the drinkability of some of the more accomplished New World offerings without losing the sense of 'terroir' that Bordeaux wines must continue to exhibit, if only for integrity's sake.

To my mind, this wine more than pulls it off - there is a very strong sense of modernity about what has been achieved here but I am confident that, in a blind tasting, this would easily be attributed to Bordeaux thanks to the supporting struture provided by the Cabernet Sauvignon.

We had this wine with a mix of cheeses that came our way from that eminent purveyor of fromages, none other than Paxton & Whitfield. We worked our way through some serious unpasteurised offerings from various parts of France and England and this wine really did make the whole experience all the more enjoyable. It didn't get in the way of some strong cheese personalities yet stood its ground as a young modern wine with something to say for itself.

An excellent present from H and R - and a hugely dependable, modern young wine to take to a dinner. A bit like turning up in a Ben Sherman suit with a Gieves & Hawkes shirt.

Very Decent Wine: 8.5/10

Probability of Buying Again: 8/10 (I do wonder if £9.99 is a wee bit steep - but otherwise yes)

Dinner Party Appeal: 10/10 (not quite steak au poivre territory but great with cheese and meaty caseroles)

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